BAKO NATIONAL PARK
With its rainforest, abundant wildlife, jungle streams,
waterfalls, interesting plant life, secluded beaches,
panoramic rocky shoreline, bizarre rock formations
and extensive network of trekking trails, Bako National
Park offers visitors an excellent introduction to
the rainforest and coastline of Borneo. Bako may
not have an instantly recognisable star attraction,
but there can be very few places in the world that
pack so much natural beauty into such a limited area,
all just 37 km from Kuching. Its accessibility -
and its sheer range of attractions and activities
- have made Bako one of the most popular parks in
Sarawak.
Gazetted in 1957, Bako is Sarawak’s oldest
national park, covering an area of 2,727 hectares
at the tip of the Muara Tebas peninsula. It is one
of the smallest national parks in Sarawak, yet one
of the most interesting, as it contains almost every
type of vegetation found in Borneo. The well-maintained
network of nature trails - from easy forest strolls
to full-day jungle treks – allows visitors
to get the most out of this unique environment.
THE RAINFOREST AND
OTHER VEGETATION
Bako contains an incredible
variety of plant species and vegetation types,
and this is one of the park’s
great attractions. At Bako it is possible to see
almost every type of vegetation found in Borneo.
25 distinct types of vegetation form seven complete
eco-systems - Beach Vegetation, Cliff Vegetation,
Kerangas or
Heath Forest, Mangrove Forest, Mixed Dipterocarp
Forest, Padang or Grasslands Vegetation and Peat
Swamp Forest. It is easy to explore these eco-systems
via the jungle trails. The contrasts are so distinct
that you do not have to be a scientist to notice
the differences. Furthermore, most of the different
vegetation types are found close to the park HQ at
Telok Assam.
WILDLIFE
Bako is probably the best place in Sarawak for wildlife
experiences. The park has been a protected area since
1957, so the animals are less wary of humans. Visitors,
especially those who stay overnight, will have countless
opportunities to observe and photograph various types
of wildlife.
The best times for seeing wildlife at Bako are just
after dawn and just before dusk, when the animals
are at their most active. You are more likely to
see animals on the trails if you go in small groups,
walk slowly, keep as quiet as possible, and listen
out for sounds and movements in the forest. For example,
you are likely to hear a strange grunting sound or
the crash of leaves long before you actually see
a proboscis monkey.
Telok Assam, the area around the HQ, is a great
place for seeing wildlife. Long-tailed macaques,
silvered langurs or leaf-monkeys, common water monitors,
plantain squirrels, wild boar and mouse deer are
all found here. Watch out for the macaques as they
are possibly the most fearless monkeys on earth.
They will raid dustbins and kitchens in the resthouses,
or scamper into the canteen to steal food or an unguarded
bag. Keep all doors locked and never encourage them
by offering food. In contrast to the unruly macaques,
the silvered leaf-monkey or silvered langur is a
docile and attractive creature. Adults have silver-grey
fur and a spiky crest of head hair, whilst the infants
are covered in bright orange fur.
Bako is also home to approximately 275 rare proboscis
monkeys, found only in Borneo. The male is an odd-looking
creature, with a huge pendulous nose and a large
pot-belly, weighing in excess of 20 kg. Both male
and female are covered in reddish-brown fur with
grey limbs and a white tail. They are mostly arboreal
(tree-dwelling), moving about the forest or mangroves
in small groups and feeding on young leaves, shoots,
sour fruits and seeds. Although it requires some
patience, an encounter with a group of proboscis
is likely to be the highlight of your trip to Bako.
The best times are early in the morning or in the
hours before dusk. Telok Delima and Telok Paku are
the best trails for viewing the proboscis. The mangroves
at Telok Assam are also a good place for viewing
proboscis monkeys.
Otters are delightful creatures to watch, and two
species are found at Bako - the oriental small-clawed
otter and the hairy-nosed otter. They spend most
of their time in the water, feeding on fish, frogs
and other small animals. Oriental small-clawed otters
are occasionally seen at Sungai Assam, swimming in
the river or running across the mud searching for
food. Hairy-nosed otters are sometimes seen early
in the morning around the mangroves at Telok Assam.
The Bornean bearded pig, Bako’s largest mammal,
is distinguished from other wild pigs by prominent
bristles either side of its snout. Bearded pigs are
often found around the park HQ scavenging for food
or wallowing in mud.
The largest of Bako’s many lizard species
is the common water monitor, olive green in colour
and reaching a length of 2 metres. Young monitors
are green with yellow spots and therefore easier
to see. They are strong swimmers and can stay submerged
for a considerable length of time. Monitors are scavengers,
feeding on carrion and occasional live prey. They
are often found near the accommodation area or near
the boat jetty, scavenging for scraps of food. You
may also see their tracks at the park’s beaches.
The small, brownish grey skink or sun lizard is
often seen basking on rocks at the beach or scurrying
away from the paths. The attractive green crested
lizard, common throughout the park, is usually bright
green but is capable of changing colour if alarmed.
Flying lizards are occasionally seen launching themselves
from tree trunks and gliding through the air.
Bako is home to a number of snakes, most of which
are harmless. They are well camouflaged, and usually
slide off into the undergrowth at the first sign
of danger. The grass green whip snake is easily recognised
by its bright colour, pencil-thin body and long snout.
The paradise tree snake’s black upper body
is marked with green spots whilst its underside is
yellowy-green with red spots. The only poisonous
snake that is occasionally seen is the Wagler’s
pit viper that, like all pit vipers, has a broad,
flat, triangular head.
Bako is a fascinating place for bird watching, as
over 150 species have been recorded here. Although
many of these can be seen around the accommodation
area, you need to hit the trails to appreciate the
full variety of Bako’s bird life. The mangroves
at Telok Assam are an excellent place to start. Serious
bird watchers should take a good pair of binoculars
and the Pocket Guide
to the Birds of Borneo, which
is widely available in Kuching.
Rock pools and mangroves are good places to search
for small animals such as mudskippers and crabs,
especially sky-blue fiddler crabs and shell-dwelling
hermit crabs. Bako also has its fair share of insects.
Watch out for them on the forest floor and hear them
everywhere.
Bako’s nocturnal creatures include the flying
lemur, pangolin, mouse deer, various bats, tarsier,
slow loris and palm civet. If you take a night walk
through the forest near the Park HQ you may catch
sight of some these creatures, as well as spiders
that shine when a flashlight is played on them, glow
worms and fireflies, You will certainly hear crickets,
cicadas, frogs, and maybe owls. The beach by the
park HQ is also a great place for a night walk. If
the tide is out you may see crabs, prawns, anemones,
starfish, annelid worms and young shrimp in the small
pools.